Here are your weekly Q&A’s! Got questions? Email me at email@example.com
I have a ton of kitchen cabinets that I am painting. What would you think of using the Annie Sloan lacquer instead of the soft wax to try to cut down on the labor?? Then can the dark wax be applied on top of it? Would the dark wax need to be “protected?”
I need to get on the ball! I have not used the lacquer yet so I cannot speak to it. I promise I will experiment this fall. Add it to my to-do list!
Re your amoire – looks like you faintly stenciled onto it. Amazing look, all so muted. Do you have directions, or more pics.
The piece was carved so that is original to the style/piece. Chalk Paint loves a detail like that and it is something that I always look for when purchasing a piece for resale. I did a really rough paint job on it as I prefer my pieces very distressed.
When you paint a china cabinet, sideboard or anything that has a cabinet with shelves, do you wax the whole interior? Such as the inside walls and shelves or just the shelves where items would be placed? I recently painted a beautiful china cabinet and literally waxed every area where paint was and it has come out very beautiful but I just wanted to know your method. I’m also afraid that if I only wax the shelves, the colors will look different shades since wax deepens the color.
The answer is sometimes. I like the paint the interior of a piece very lightly so that it has that rustic-wood look (unless a client prefers something different. If it is very rustic I will not wax as any scratches will add to the look. If it is more of a clean look then I will wax. Yes, you need to do the entire interior if you wax the shelves because color will vary.
How do you get the dark wax out of the crevices? The surfaces, with steel wool are easy, but not sure what to do with those cracks, etc. and around the ornate parts, for example, the top of your armoire.
I would recommend not getting dark wax into those crevices. If you want these areas to look darker then simply do not paint there. It will add the same effect that dark wax does without the effort and wax.
I have a beautiful vintage vanity with upholstered seat, it unfortunately has ruined wood veneer (not plastic laminate with wood grain, but real wood), it is in a beautiful pattern. It looks like water damage warped the veneer. At first I thought about trying to repair the veneer, but after watching a few online tutorials I’ve decided it would be too difficult. So, now I am considering glueing the veneer flat, which is the first step in repairing the veneer, and simply painting and distressing with chalk paint and wax. Do you believe this is possible to do and still be beautiful?
It is always worth salvaging a piece if you enjoy it! If you can glue the veneer down or try to smooth it as much as possible so that it lays flat that would be ideal. Then paint. You will most likely not even notice a difference.
Is this the cat that ran away? Is he/she back?
No, this is Ollie. Shelly left us and has not returned by choice. She knows darn well where we live.
If I have a piece of furniture that I’m wanting to do has some issues of repair. ie: dings, deep scratches, cracks/especially joint cracks….what product do you use to repair them with? Or do you?…does the ASCP take care of this?
I love Elmer’s wood glue and wood filler. I keep them front and center. Deep scratches can be fixed with wood filler and a scraper. It is easily done. If you have a join cracks that is huge then you will need wood glue and clamps to hold the pieces until they dry.
Do you use ASCP on ALL of your furniture?
I offer Chalk Paint to all my clients. I work with MMS Milk Paint in my own home and am happy to offer to clients, but this means letting me and the paint do its thing. Milk Paint does not turn out exact as Chalk Paint does. One has to understand that it will peel and apply to wood in its own way. I love this, but not everyone does. Chalk Paint is always consistent. The color in the can is the color you will get.
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