Hey! Lots of questions since I last posted. Here you go.
Got questions? Email me at email@example.com If you message me on FB it will take me MUCH longer to respond.
I have one question….do you have suggestion on how to repair loose veneer on the top of an old oak dresser before I paint it?
If the veneer is pealing up then you can use wood glue to adhere and then a clamp to keep the pieces together. If a part has been ripped off then you could try wood filler. Scrape it on and sand it down, trying to match & level the surface.
I have an older amish made couch I just purchased for $25 at a garage sale. I have a lot of black furniture and an oversized arm chair that doesn’t match the couch. Any ideas on what I can do to change the look of this couch? I’ve heard of fabric paint but it is in great condition and don’t know if it will change the feel of the couch.
To give you my honest opinion if it were me I would pick out some pretty fabric and have it reupholstered. I know it is expensive, but if the piece has great bones you will have it for forever.
Do you ever use the black/Grey paints?
I use French Linen all the time and I have used Graphite many times. They are rich and very classy colors.
I hope you can shed some light on a matter of pricing painted furniture. I follow many American painters on Facebook and have noticed that you, and others, price your furniture for sale very reasonably; in fact, cheaply.
I would be really curious to hear how European sellers price their furniture. I live in a pretty urban area so customers are familiar with painted furniture and interest seems to be growing. I try to price based on what the market will hold. If you are unsure, experiment. You can always lower.
I was looking at your website under the section showcasing the homes you’ve built. Any chance you would be willing to share your house plan for the house featured in Fresh Style? Or is there a way I could pay you a fee for the house plan design?
I have been asked this before. I am open to discussing the possibility.
Do you provide interior design services for out of state clients (I love in Atlanta, GA)? Have you ever considered building houses for clients?
I do offer remote design services. It requires a real back and forth with images and video. My reduced rate is $65 per hour for remote. DH and I are always looking for another building opportunity. However, it would have to be local.
I was specifically looking at the french table & chairs before and after – http://www.stylishpatina.com/2012/01/deal-of-the-day-before-after.html. I have been searching your website and am having trouble finding a good picture of the set. Can you help direct me? In the picture on Kelly’s site it looks like the top of the table is lighter. Is that the case or is the whole table the same color? My grandmother just gave me a shiny table and set of chairs in a similar finish (as the “before”) and I’m looking for ideas! I love the looks of yours and would love a pic that is closer up and any instructions on how you completed it. I think that I am interested in doing a two-tone table (lighter on the top, I think).
This is the one you are looking for. No, the entire piece is Paris Grey with heavy dark wax.
Have you ever used non ASCP dark wax on a piece? If so, how did it go?
Yes! All the time. Watch my tutorial, but the gist is that a little goes a long way.
I just finished watching your video with the round oak dining table with the restoration hardware look. I have the exact round oak table that I’m getting ready to refinish for my home. I wanted that same look where the wood grain is slightly showing rather than a thick painted look- exactly what you did. My question for you is how do I protect the table so it’s practical for us to eat on every day? I have 3 kiddos under 10, so this table will get lots of wear and tear. Will the clear wax protect it enough from water marks and scratches, or should I put on a layer of something else? I watched how you were able to wipe off the paint with just a wet rag, so after I’ve gotten the look I want, I obviously don’t want the paint to keep wiping off every time I clean the table.
Clear Wax will help, but 3 kids (and I know) will wear any type of furniture. This is a look that would show less wear, however. Go for it!
I was wondering if you could tell me where the chocolate zebra rug in your dining room was from? I’ve been looking for one exactly like it.
I have my parents old french prov. bedroom set from 1964. It’s looking really bad, but I haven’t known until now what I want to do with it, thanks to your videos (is that the right way to reference those things on youtube?). Anyway, this particular set isn’t like anything I have seen anywhere. It has a formica wood-looking top. I can’t decide how to finish it. I have thought about just painting the bottom of the dresser, chest of drawers and night stand and leaving the top as is, however, I think it is, well, ugly. Would you have any suggestions on what to do with the tops? There are only a couple of small chips on the edges of one piece, but other than that, the tops are in pretty good shape. (I guess that speaks to the strength of formica, huh?…but it’s still ugly =))
I would definitely paint the tops. You will not be able to sand them for formica, but you will be able to get them to match the rest of the pieces.
I was thinking about painting my blinds that are made out of dark grass/reed material with the cording along the sides to hold the pieces in place and make them able to be pulled up to different lengths. I think that chalk paint should work perfectly, but, wondered if you think it would be necessary to was and also is there anything special that I should be aware of before I start the process.
I think it’s a great idea and believe it would work well.
I have a painted a china hutch which had some chunks of old veneer missing. I kept it that way because it was from my childhood and I still wanted to maintain those “memories” of how it came to be. And I love it. However, I recently bought a desk that has some chips in it and was wondering if I should try to heat the veneer off (if that’s even doable) or just fill it in with wood filler. Have you ever had to do this?
I have never heard of heating veneer and would be scared to see what was beneath it. You best bet is to use wood filler and try to smooth out any chunks. I’ve done this before. Again, you will not be able to sand/distress, but you will get a cohesive look.
I painted an old washstand that was finished in a mahogany stain. I mixed Provence with equal part of Old White. For some reason, it kept bleeding through. At first, it appeared that it was fine, but as it dried, red tones began to appear in splotches. After applying 4 coats, I finally threw in the towel and will do a coat of Latex Kilz and start again. Has this happened to you? I’ll admit, I was stumped. And is apply Kilz the best solution.
Yes, shellac is the only thing that will help in these instances. You may need several thick coats. Keep at it.
I painted a table white for my craft room. It has Paris Grey as the undertone paint. I love the way that it looks, but it absorbs stains that I can’t get out. I’ve experienced this with pencil and water based craft paint. I waxed the table – any ideas how to make it more resistant? More wax?
Did you do a thick coat of wax? Did you let it dry for a few days? Is the piece real wood?
How did you paint over the shutters that are in your dinning room? What of Annie Sloan colors did you use for the shutters? Did you use the dark wax?
It is the closest to Florence
In your master bedroom where did you get your bedding and throw pillows from?
I honestly cannot remember.
I have seen you do several pieces with glass doors and mirrors. Do you tape off all of your edges that are glass as to not get paint on them or is there an easy way of removing paint from glass when you paint the wood next to it? I can’t see an easy way to take out the glass without damaging the piece.
I never tape my mirrors or glass. I scrape after I am done.
How long after applying clear wax do I wait before applying the dark wax? Also, how long should a completed piece sit before it can be used (like placing items on top of it for display)?
Let the clear wax dry at least overnight before applying dark wax. I like to wait 2/3 days before placing items on top of surfaces.
Would you tell me where you ordered your new coffee table from.
RH! Go BIG!
I had a question about a small table I redid. I love the chalk paint and wax. The finish of a clear wax does seem to prove to be waterproof and pretty durable against condensation from cold drink glasses. However the other day I set down a very HOT cup of tea and later noticed it left a ring. Now I would assume that buffing it out with wax will fix it, but have you noticed this happening to you. I always try to keep using coasters on all furniture no matter the finish. I feel that it is a good habit for my daughter and husband in case we are guests in another home. But apparently I got lax that day and did not use a coaster.
I drink ALOT of hot tea and have not had this issue. Did you let your clear wax dry sufficiently? Yes, buff out, wax and let dry several days.
You may have mentioned this in a post before, but my question is do you blog from an Ipad? I want to start bogging again, but would like to use my Ipad, because I feel it would be easier to blog from wherever I am. If you do is there an app/program you use to help you blog? I have tried to blog from my Ipad before, and have found it difficult to set the post up the way I want it.
I’m sure you could use your ipad to blog. I prefer being at my computer so I don’t have any children jumping on me 🙂
I was watching your videos over the weekend. I thought you said you use the 100 grade steel wool but when I went to store I only found it in grades 0000-3? So I was confused which to get. Plus can you tell me again what do you use this for…LOL…I guess I should have wrote it down!! I think after the wax dries… just to buff out? It was my first time using clear wax this weekend….I waxed last night and still tacking this morning…but it just needs more drying time right? It will smooth out, right?! I had it so smooth from sanding before the wax and I want it to feel like that!
You want FINE steel wool and 100 grade sand paper. You will use the fine steel wool to go behind yourself as you are applying the dark wax. The sand paper is to rough up the edges and distress. The best way to do this is to sand first and then use your clear wax.
I would like to know where you get the horse figures you have featured in your photos? I cant seem to find anything like them. Please help!
Those pix were from Pinterest. I do have several horses from flea markets. Check out Etsy!
I have a wooden ceiling. I like it but I live at the beach and want to brighten the whole thing up. Do you think I can use the Annie Sloan Paint on it? to make it white? or white wash?
Yes, I think that would look great. Whether or not you use ASCP or a Ben Moore paint. If it’s too dark then paint!
I think I can?
It looks so simple and I hate to have to hire a painter to do what I can DIY.
first we made a farmhouse table from Shanty 2 Chic and wanted to ask if you can use the ASCP on fresh wood? We have worked almost three days on the table and do not want to screw it up haha. Secondly, we are interested in your design services. We live in Texas so it will have to be the online service… we just bought our first home and are in the process of adding a few things to chalk paint!!
Where can I get hinges like you used for the TV cover above the fireplace?
LOVE the look and furniture!!!