Here are your Q&As.
Got questions? Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a friend who wants help painting a table, but she wants to know if it would be an option to remove the paint one day if she wants to stain it. I’ve searched and googled and can’t find a definitive answer. My gut reaction is “no” but can you confirm that?
Well, the answer is actually yes. She could sand off the paint with an electric sander until she reaches the wood. Then stain. This may take some real effort and muscle, but it is always an option. In order to do this, however, the piece has to be real wood.
I have no clue what to charge to paint 10 chairs and stain a table top than paint the rest white I live in Utah thanks I could use how you formulate your fees.
Does your area have/appreciate painted furniture? Chairs are really alot of work. More work than a table and a dresser even though they are smaller. I would charge at least $70 a chair and go up from there depending on your area. Tables are big so don’t short-change yourself. A minimum of $150 and go up depending on your area. Does it surprise anyone that I’m throwing out numbers? There are so many variables, but what if Chalk Painters all got on the same page? Would we then set a standard of our work? Hmm.
This may be a stupid question…but…my kitchen cabinets are painted white….now I’m wanting to paint the bottom set a deep grayish & distress them some…of course I will use ASCP…but I need advice on color & if i sand them will the white come through or should in paint them dark first to have a darker color come through??? HELP!!!!!
If you DO NOT want white to come through once you sand then the answer is that, yes, you need to sand off the white color. If you are looking for a shabby look on the bottom I think it would look cool to have the white come through. I would also tie in the two colors.
I purchased an AS wax brush, but only have one. If I am working on a project, do I have to wash it right away? Many times I will go back to work on something new a few hours later, but the brush will still be wet from cleaning. What if the brush had leftover wax on it and sat for a few hours? I am also having the same problem with paint brushes. I only own about 8 of them, but I immediately clean them after the first coat and then can not use it until the next day.
Annie Sloan does not make wax brushes so you are probably using one that your stockist sells that is a generic wax brush. No, you do not have to wash it after every use. I wash mine only after many, many uses when the wax really gets to caked on to be useful. For regular brushes I was after I am finished for the day. I always wrap the wet brushes well in paper towel to dry completely. If they are wet then it is hard for the paint to adhere.
Have you ever used paint or wax from the American Paint Company? If so, were you satisfied with the results?
I met a sweet vendor from APC who gave me some samples to try. In all honesty, I do not heart the colors like I do ASCP. That being said, when I have a free moment I would still like to give it a try.
I was wondering if you have ever used Annie Sloan paint on stone tiles. I have some in my kitchen that have real uneven surfaces and are rough and are a bear to clean. I was thinking of painting them grout and all and sealing so they would be easier to clean.
I would test a tile to see what happens. It does adhere to ceramic. My only question would be the sheen that they put on tiles. Test and then try to scratch off. If you are not satisfied I bet Rustoleum makes a spray.
I want to make sure it is worth my while but at the same time I do not want my items being overpriced and unattractive to buyers. Would you have any advice on how you calculate your pricing?
Again, think about your area. Are there shops that sell shabby chic? Where do you sell? Shop and take a look around. Price and then adjust as you go. You may not get it right the first few times. If you have an amazing, rare piece price high and wait.
I’m getting ready to paint a dinette set for my daughter and I’m really wanting the chairs to be the color of yours in your kitchen (the all wood ones). I was wondering how you achieved that color? If I had to guess, I’d guess Country Grey with clear and dark wax, but you say to only use dark wax on the distressed part. I love the “Restoration Hardware” look but I’m having a hard time achieving that color.
My kitchen chairs were done with milk paint from The Real Milk Paint Co. I experimented for days to get the color and added a wood stain on top. Unless you are willing to really take the time to achieve a specific color then I would recommend using ASCP. It’s easier. I stripped and sanded these chairs and it was a very, very messy process. If you are looking for a color that is similar I would take Country Grey and add some Coco to it to deepen & add some brown undertones. Then distress big time. Add dark wax in crevices and on the surface to really age them.
I already have a couple of pieces I’m eager to work on but I was just wondering about some of the paint qualities. For example, one piece I was thinking about repurposing was our bathroom vanity but I was wondering how the paint holds up with the constant subjection to water. Or, how about a kitchen table that needs to be frequently washed? Does the wax act like a polyurethae? And what about if I painted a head board will I end up with paint or wax on my linens or in my hair??
Haha! No, don’t worry about your hair on the headboard 🙂 Just let the wax sit for a few days before using it in your room. The wax does not act like a poly. The wax is soft and does protect the paint from scratching and coming off, but it is not like a hard shell like you will get with a poly. If you are doing a bathroom vanity/sink then I would definitely recommend putting some kind of poly or really tough coat over your painted work.
My question: I recently purchased a vintage table and chairs from a garage sale and I will be painting them old white. On the seats of the chairs they have a beautiful wool rose bouquet needlepoint. Each chair is a different floral bouquet. Cool right? Anyway the seats are pretty dirty, but in good condition. Do you have any suggestions on a product to clean the seats. I am afraid since they are old that the yarn will bleed. They are not easy to remove as they have piping all the way around. So I need to clean them while on the chair. Any suggestions? Also I know it will be a challenge to paint around this piping, but I am up for a challenge.
I would really recommend going or calling an upholsterer like Calico Corners or the like. They sell fabric cleaner that works on delicate fabric. They may also know how best to take care of your chairs. Also, you will want to do a test on the underside before applying any chemical. Stains may not come out completely, but I view this as character in an old piece. Who wants an interesting chair that is squeaky clean?
I have this exact same table but two of the hinges are broken… I have looked everywhere for the replacement and have not been able to find the right size… do you have a source for hinges that you can refer me to I’m guessing that my table is probably 30 to 40 years old.
Do a Google Search and/or an Ebay search. I have found similar pieces on Ebay and have been able to contact sellers that may deal with issues like this all the time.
I’m finishing a piece and tried your waxing with a rag technique. It is much easier and faster. The piece I am finishing is a dinette set and the chair are almost identical to the ones you have at your kitchen table in your home pics. As I waxed the little spindles, a lot of the paint came off. I’ve noticed this happening even when using the wax brush. Am I rubbing too much or too hard. I know you say to really work the wax into the paint but sometimes, especially on detail, the paint comes right off. What am I doing wrong?
Are you painting real wood? Have you let the paint dry? I truly have never had this happen on a wood piece. It should not rub off.
If not going with one color, which of the ASCP colors do you think work well together in a room?
I always tell clients to go with the neutrals. They work together and then you can move pieces around your home.
I recently started using ASCP pretty exclusively, I love it. I’m nervous about using it on a kitchen table which gets so much everyday use. Thoughts on this…..I’m redoing one right now for a friend in graphite, how does the wax hold up? I have another one to do that is in the off white and that scares me…… Your thoughts/tips would be appreciated.
Painted furniture will wear. All furniture will wear. You have to embrace the shabby, aged look if you are going to paint furniture. I love how pieces wear with Chalk Paint. If you have a great wood piece then it will show this wood color as it ages. If you do not like the wear then your options are a) put a real poly on it b) touch up every few years.
Do you have any advice/tips on how to go about painting a dark oak Windsor chair and generally painting anything with spindles – not sure where/how to start. I’m a real novice but I’d like to have a go.
With lots of spindles you will just need to be mindful of drips. You can’t always see every angle so they can creep up on you. Do a few layers of light coats.
My question is where do you get Annie Sloan paint/supplies and have you ever tried making/using homemade chalk paint?
You most likely have a stockist in your area that sells ASCP. You can look on her site for locations. I buy mine at Stylish Patina where I live. She also sells it online.
My friend and I are thinking about starting a business similar to yours. We went shopping for furniture this weekend and picked up some good items. I’m just curious if you have any advice for picking out furniture. Where do you like to shop (flee markets, yard sales, Salvation Army?) and what price point do you like to stay around?
Yes and yes. You can find your furniture at all these places, just be sure not to pay too much for you. Materials are very expensive so you want your return to be worth it. See above for price advice. Good luck!