I love hearing from you guys & think you are the absolute BEST! Here are some recent questions & answers. I welcome them and promise to post on them once I’ve collected a few.
“How do you handle a piece of furniture that has already been painted a dark ugly green? I don’t want the green to show through at all. Any suggestions would be appreciated!”
When you are using your chalk paint to paint over a color – like green or red or black, etc – you have to be aware that when you go to sand the piece that color is going to go through in those distressed areas. A way to get around that and still acheive a shabby look is to NOT sand and simply use your dark wax to distress. Let me also say, that sanding and letting the color through should not be a deal breaker. It can make your piece look like it has some history behind it. And it does!
“If I am going for a black finish do you recommend doing a coat of clear wax after painting before I use the dark wax?”
Always do a coat of clear wax before doing any dark wax. If you go straight to dark wax after letting your paint dry your dark wax will create skid marks. Literally. It will not go on smooth.
“Can I repaint once I’ve clear waxed and dark waxed?”
Yes! If you’ve finished your piece and hate it or it’s not what you expected then start over. If there are simply spots that you don’t like then repaint and wax just those spots. You will not be able to tell that you’ve repaired these areas.
“I like the idea of the steel wool, but have to ask… what it does different than just a dry rag or cloth?”
If you want to control the amount of dark wax that you put on a piece the easiest way that I have found is with fine steel wool. A cloth is just not quite as abrasive. The other option is to go over your piece again with your clear wax if you use too much dark wax. Dark wax is finicky and you want to stay on top of the application. Use the fine steel wool, trust me.
“Do you sand between coats and when you brush the top of a buffet do you paint all in the same direction or something similar to Annie’s X stroke?”
I personally do not sand between coats unless things look a bit uneven or lumpy or I’ve simply messed up. It’s paint, you will have paint strokes.
“Can I paint manufactured wood with ASCP? Do I need to add in an extra step to make it stick?”
Nope. No prep, no sanding. Yes, it will take to any type of wood.
“Do you have any advice on color mixing? My goal is to go with a VERY pale pink (it will be the only pink thing in the room).”
My advice is play and then do a sample. If you want a paler pink or other color, add some Pure White or Old White. My caution to you is to mix enough to cover your entire piece 2xs over. Otherwise you may not be able to match it exactly if you want more coverage. You know?
“Love some tips on how you started selling or marketing your pieces and how you determine a price.”
Start small – a venue that you can control & not be overwelmed by. A local craft show, Craigslist, an open house, etc. Start with your community because there are people that are where you are that will become an audience for you. Don’t underestimate word of mouth. Pricing is tricky and I feel like it changes all the time. The best advice I have on the subject is to shop. Shop for what you yourself are creating and see what the market can bear out there. Then make yours competitive.
“I‘m going to do my first piece (headboard) with chalk paint in black and I want to distress the details and then wax but will the dark wax make a difference on the black paint? If it will do I paint,sand,clear,dark wax or paint wax sand dark wax?”
Well, Annie Sloan does not make a true black. The closest is called Graphite. If you are looking for a true black you can try Cece Caldwell paints (which I have not yet used) or milk paint. I have a foyer table that I finished with black milk paint and I love it. No, your dark wax will not really show up on the black. An idea for you would be to use some gold leaf in the crevices for some distinction.
“Any furniture style you feel does NOT look good painted, i.e. my husbands “bachelor” furniture?”
It all comes down to taste. I personally thing chalk paint was meant for older pieces of furniture with curvy lines and details and places for that paint to catch. It is a certain type of look that I love & try to create, which is European and/or Cottage. I think pieces that are built in this style look best refinished in chalk paint. Personally, I would not spend the money on the paint & waxes to refinish simple, inexpensive furniture. Instead, go out and find a vintage piece that you like more and paint it!
“Can she use regular paint over the chalk paint before I wax it??? I just want to make sure that she ill be able to paint on it once I am finished.. So can she use any paint and should she do it before I wax it??
Yes, if you want to do some kind of stencil on your piece. Simply use your chalk paint and let it dry. Then apply your stencil or mural and once dry continue with you waxing process.
“Will that paint work on “finished” newer furniture, or does it only work well on old furniture Would I need to strip the gloss or topcoat off of the tables first or just start painting?”
Just start painting! Yes, it will work on newer furniture. If there is a gloss you will find that you will need a few extra coats.
“Do you remove the fabric first, paint, then pick new fabric? I assume so but just need confirmation. I have two old chairs and one bench all with fabric and all needing a redo from the dark wood. Do you have a good fabric source?”
If you are trying to refinish and reupholster a piece you will want to take off all the fabric piping and expose all of the wood. You will then paint & wax & distress. Once completely dry then you can take your piece to your upholsterer to do the fabric refinishing. I’ve ordered fabric from alot of places online, but my favorite at the moment is onlinefabricstore.net
“EVERYWHERE I look, people are saying how far the AS paint goes. WHAT am I doing wrong? Are people adding water and leaving that step out?”
Well, how big is your piece and how many coats are you doing? A quart is a quart. A small table will take a half a can if you use 2 coats. Yes, it’s expensive so know what you are getting into.
“Does it (fine steel wool) leave particles and break down when you use to take the dark wax off?”
Yes, the fine steel wool that I recommend using with your dark wax will shed. So, you want to make sure you apply it to a piece where you’ve let the clear wax completely set and dry. Then after you use your fine steel wool, you will want to take a dry brush and brush off the particles that come off. It’s the best way I’ve found to control your dark wax and it works for me.