Here you go, Readers!
1.I know you say that the consistency should be like pancake batter, but when I mix mine I seem to get lumps and wetness.
Ha…actually, the consistency isn’t like pancake batter, but mixing it is like mixing pancake batter, if that makes sense! When mixing milk paint, it’s best to mix it, then let it sit for a few minutes, so the powder can absorb the water. Once it’s mixed, it should be fairly smooth, but a few lumps, like in pancake batter, are okay. Glad you asked, so I could clear that up!
2. I still seem to get lots of drips even when it’s stirred well. Is this normal?
If the paint is dripping, it’s too thin. You can brush over it again, since milk paint is very workable as it’s drying, but I would suggest adding a bit more powder and stirring it again.
3. Is there a way to get more of a peeling/chippy look?
Yes, you can use Hemp Oil under milk paint as a resist. The paint will chip and flake where the hemp oil was applied. You can also use Vaseline and beeswax for different looks and even try applying heat.
4. Do I need to prep my piece?
If you’re painting a porous piece (raw wood, flat paint, Chalk Paint, stained wood, dried out wood, etc.), they you don’t need to sand or prime the surface. If the existing finish is glossy, oily or slick, I would suggest lightly sanding it to give the piece some tooth and then add the bonding agent to the milk paint. This will make it adhere to finishes that an all-natural paint won’t normally stick to.
5. How many coats do you typically do to make a piece look complete?
As with other paints, it depends on the color. The whites usually take at least two coats, but can be more if you’re painting a dark wood or intense color. In most cases, I can apply 1-2 coats of paint.
6. When should I use my hemp oil?
The Hemp Oil is a topcoat that can be used on any piece. I started using it more when I was hacking trouble with the wax melting on my pieces at Lucketts. Hemp oil is a great option because it’s easy to apply, doesn’t require buffing, it won’t melt and it’s 100% natural. So, when you use it is a preference thing.
7. I wonder, does the clear wax she has stop the chipping from happening once you’ve reAched a point of “omg it’s perfect! Enough chipping already?” Place?
We’ve actually developed a new product (that will be available in a few weeks) called Tough Coat. This product will seal chippy pieces, so there is more control over the end result.
8. What is the difference between MMS’s wax and Annie Sloan’s?
I think the biggest difference between our Furniture Wax and other clear waxes on the market is the texture. The MMSMP wax is a little creamier in texture and there is virtually no order. In fact, it has a light lavender scent to it. Our Antiquing Wax and White Wax were developed to use as a decorative finish, whereas other brown and dark waxes were originally designed to be a wood stain and wax in one. I realized I was always mixing a little dark wax with a lot of clear wax, so it wouldn’t look too heavy. When we developed our waxes, I wanted to address that issue. Our waxes go on lighter, more like a glaze with the texture of a wax, and they are easier to control. I think both brands of waxes are great, so it just comes down to preference. I know lots of customers mix and match waxes and paints, depending on what they like!
Let me know if you have any other questions! – MMS